Struggling with performance and reliability issues with your weekend classic?
Hint - it wants to be driven.
Classic Mustangs are something of a metaphor for aging baby boomers who drive them occasionally, but not often enough. When we don't get into proper diet and exercise, we tend to feel rotten. We feel tired and lethargic. We want to prop out feet up and watch "I Dream Of Jeannie" reruns, which just isn't good for our physical health let alone the mental part. Our classic Mustangs are the same way. When we don't get out there and drive them - and we mean really drive them - they develop all kinds of woes we'd rather not experience.
Because gasoline isn't what it used to be, it tends to become rancid more quickly than it used to especially in damp climates. In short, it doesn't last in your tank the way it once did. Condensation forms in your engine's crankcase, mixing it up with acids causing corrosion and sludge. Seals and gaskets become hard and begin to leak. Fuel evaporates in your Mustang's carburetor leaving deposits which clog small passages. Valves tend to stick in their guides due to unfriendly fuel gum deposits, which can cause big problems. Valve springs on open valves loose their spring tension. Coolant that just sits in your Mustang's cooling system develops acids and other contaminants, which will cause corrosion. Rust particles as a result will clog the radiator.
Batteries do not like to sit. Even the sealed gel cell batteries, which are still lead-acid batteries, don't like to sit unused either. They must be kept on a trickle charger - a battery maintainer - to be kept charged. Battery Tender is one idea for your PC's search engine because it's a cool automatic battery trickle charger that's very effective. Check it out. Lead acid batteries tend to be forgiving if you let them go dead. Gel cell batteries tend to die and cannot be charged up again regardless of what you do with them. This isn't true of all gel cell batteries - but some. Batteries of all types must be kept charged.
Go to www.BatteryTender.com for more information.
Belts, hoses, wiper blades, and weatherstripping tend to dry rot when they sit for extended periods.
So what to do about your old classic to keep it in top working order? Drive your Mustang at least once a week. Start it up and let it get warm. Keep fresh fuel in the tank. Use a fuel preservative to keep fuel fresh - but keep fuel rotated. Get that engine to operating temperature and and do it on the open road where it can get good and hot. This cooks all of the condensation out of the engine and exhaust system. Brake application removes any surface rust on rotors and drums.
Once a year like clockwork, have your Mustang's braking system flushed and bled - then confirm a hard pedal and good brakes. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air via steel lines, which do breathe. Mustangs driven regularly need a brake flush every two years. When they sit, once a year.
Oil and filter changes along with chassis lubes must happen every six months. If you're enjoying a fresh restoration, use Mobil 1 synthetic and CamGuard to protect your Mustang's engine. This unbeatable combination keeps oil where it belongs on all surfaces. When you start the engine after a long quiet spell, bearings and journals will still have lubrication for a cold start-up.
Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil sticks to all moving parts. CamGuard helps Mobil 1 do an even better job of protecting your engine from corrosion and dry bearing and cylinder wall start-ups that can do engine damage.
For Mobil 1 and other high-quality lubricants and fuel preservatives visit Summit Racing Equipment at any one of three locations or visit their website at www.summitracing.com. For CamGuard, contact MCE Engines at 323-731-0462 or email them at mceengines@aol.com.